farmagusta

Famagusta's fortunes changed dramatically in 1291, when Christian merchants fled from the Saracens in Palestine. They came to Famagusta, where they could trade as middle-men between west and east. By 1300 AD, Famagusta was a major trading port in the eastern Mediterranean, and a city well known for its wealth and excesses. It was said that in Famagusta, merchant's daughters wore more jewels than kings at their coronations. It was also the centre for several Christian religious orders, as Cyprus was an important staging post for Crusaders heading to the Holy Land. Impressive churches still dot the town today, overlooked by the town walls. These walls were strengthened by the ruling Lusignan kings in the thirteenth century, and it was these kings who also built the most impressive church of all, the Cathedral of St Nicholas, now a magnificent mosque.
 

In 1372, the rivalry between Genoese and Venetians merchants in Famagusta was causing problems. When fighting broke out over an incident at the coronation of King Peter II, some Genoese lost both their lives and property. In revenge, the Genoese occupied parts of Cyprus and Famagusta, forcing out the traders to nearby Nicosia. The Genoese were thrown out in 1464, but the damage to trade had been done.In 1489, the Venetians moved their capital city from Nicosia to Famagusta, and they too began a massive programme of improving the town's defensive walls, adding towers and cannon posts.

For lunch or a sticky pastry snack, head for Petek Pastanesi, a very popular cafe on Liman Yolu in old Famagusta. Spread over two floors, the best seats in summer are beside the fish-filled fountain. Or enjoy the artwork and fresh salads while sitting in the shade at Jax Café Bar's open courtyard. If you like your restaurant to have a literary connection, try the Desdemona Café at Canbulat Yolu 3, between the Sea Gate and Canbulat bastion in Famagusta. This North Cyprus restaurant sits inside a tower with no windows, which lends it an atmosphere all its own, especially out of season when the locals come here instead of tourists. The North Cyprus meze is particularly good, a big meal with a small price tag.

The trendiest café of them all in Famagusta must be the D&B Café on the main square (Namik Kemal Meydani), right opposite the mosque. The D&B Café in Famagusta is a popular student haunt which does great pizza and ice-cream! For a quick snack, Haci'nin Yeri are known for their excellent kebabs, although finding them is challenging, as the restaurant is tucked in a shopping arcade opposite the main gate into the walled city of Famagusta